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We've fitted over half the stoves we've made, and have built up years of varied experience. We
can make a stove to suit a particular situation, which gives us unique advantages over most manufacturers(... as well as stimulating
our research and development!)
There are obviously many ways of fitting a stove, depending on whether there's
a chimney available, and if so whether a recess or 'builder's opening' can be formed. If a standard
fireplace opening is already there, the opening can be plated off, and the stove simply sit on the hearth in front, for
a 'proud' fit
If a chimney is required, the simplest way is to
use a stainless steel flue (double-skinned and insulated), which can be taken directly up through the house, or through a wall and up the side. If it's possible to go straight up and through the roof we recommend it ... keeps the flue straighter
for a better 'draw', and you gain that bit of extra heat within the house.
As long as we get enough information,
we can usually advise or help with the design of the installation.
below are some sketches of typical installations:

RECESSED FITTINGS



... a HYBRID 8, with steel insert box; hearth in steel, or
brushed slate

... as above, with child guard

... a larger stove, such as the SUMO BOILER shown here, can
be recessed, ideally to sit half into the room ... more work to fit, but saves room, and can store some of the radiant heat
into the walls for slow release.
PROUD FITTINGS

... if space allows, the stove can be moved out into
the room. A flue connector comes off the top of the stove, and branches into the chimney at 45 degrees; an access hatch below
the bend allows for good access to the chimney. A chimney liner can then bend into the flue within the wall opening. 'Half
moon' plates screwed to the wall complete the installation

... HYBRID 6, proud fit, side ashdrawer. The simplest
way to fit a stove: plate the opening off, and the stove slides in and out for access. The hearth might need extending into
the room, if it's less than 600mm deep



... as long as we can create the space to make a joint inside
the fireplace, we can attach to a chimney liner, if the flue is not in good condition

LITTLE DEVIL, 4kws, proud fit ... on a narrow hearth, for
example
FREE STANDING STOVES

... a freestanding SUMO, feeding into an insulated stainless
steel chimney, sitting on a raised hearth

... a HYBRID 6, freestanding, as above

... AZTEC woodburner, freestanding, as above. Insulated base
means hearth only has to be 12mm thick over a wooden floor

... SUMO 18, standing proud of the original wall, with a
steel and stone surround built around it; the flue will go up and break into the wall behind the hood, and feeding into a
chimney liner

... a DOUBLE SIDED SUMO, situated between two rooms, or can
be freestanding in centre of a large room. The one shown here is a boiler version, but a great way of fitting a space heater
as well. The masonry surround soaks up a lot of heat for slow release, which means you can add a third more output to the
stove than the rooms immediately need ... typically 16 kws or bigger!

... detail showing how a flue connector can engage with a
clay-lined chimney. A 'drop plate' is secured under the clay liner, so that the flue connector slides up over it,
and drops into the stove collar. An access hatch allows for chimney access, without having to remove the stove.

... many refinements and variations are possible .. for example,
adapting the stove to draw air in from outside. This can be advantageous if it's an unusually big stove, or the house
is super-sealed, or has an air recovery system

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